Greece has been on our wish list for a long time. Obviously, it goes without saying that visiting the land of the love of Lena and Kostos from Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants is the stuff of my adolescent dreams. You can only see so many pictures of blue-domed rooftops and white stucco houses before you finally sit up in bed one night and say, “That’s it, we’re going.”

Visitors to Greece can determine the best islands to visit by evaluating they way they travel, and what kind of trip they want. There are spots for shopping, partying, pictures, adventuring, sunsets, food, quiet lounging, navigating on foot, and needing a set of wheels (usually a rental car or an ATV).

One great resource in paring down our options was John Philp Thompson’s blog post from his trip to Greece earlier in 2022. Another blog post listed “Best for” islands in helpful categories like so:

The Best Beaches: Naxos and *Paros

The Best for Natural Beauty: Crete

The Best for Low-Key Luxury: Antiparos

The Most Charming: Hydra

The Most Romantic: *Santorini

The Best for College-Aged Partying: Ios

The Best for 20 to 30-Something Partying: Mykonos

After we would our first few day in Athens, which most travellers do, our island picks were Paros and Santorini.

This is the first installment of our series of recommendations, starting with Athens, the capital city.

Days 1-3: Athens

Activity

In our quick few days here, we had limited time to do sightseeing. We did, however, book a two-hour e-bike tour for the morning of our first full day in the city, which we would absolutely recommend doing. Our tour guide took our group (with folks from all over the world, including San Francisco, Israel, and South Africa) to all of the main sights in Athens, including the botanical gardens (which have jogging trails for those looking for a scenic area to work out), the location of the first ever marathon race, a centuries-old Greek Orthodox church, and a hilltop view of the Parthenon.
Walking and biking are the two ways we were able to get around! Athens is an easily navigable city, and we stayed in the heart of town, which made our stay easy, manageable, and more cost efficient.

Eat

You MUST visit HooCut for souvlaki, for a few reasons. Visited by Gordon Ramsey, the chefs and co-owners had a vision for “fast - but not hasty - street food,” and this is their brainchild.
They offer mouthwatering souvlaki for THREE EURO FIFTY. Our earlier bike tour guide’s tip for ordering souvlaki was to ask for “pita souvlaki.” If newcomers only ask for “souvlaki,” most places will bring out a souvlaki platter, and charge you premium for it, or 11-14 euros. But asking for it in a sandwich form, similarly to here in the States, gets you the same serving of food, for a fraction of the price, and with pita bread.
The Underdog is lovely for coffee, breakfast, or lunch! It’s near the markets, which you can explore on foot after finishing your meal. Also an uber industrial locale with great coffee and healthy options for food.
A great spot for an evening meal or glass of wine is Feyrouz, which serves Levantine street food. It’s a hole-in-the-wall and a bit of a walk from the city square, but worthwhile.
Find one of the dessert bars near Monastiraki Square. We visited one that offered what seemed to be every kind of dessert imaginable and available in Athens - including authentic Greek dishes like baklava and Galaktoboureko (custard in filo), both of which we ordered per our waiter’s recommendation.

Drink

Our fave coffee spot was Dope. No, the name is actually Dope! They offer great coffee and pastries, and plenty of seating made for guests who want to stick around and work, read, or chat with friends. Lots of greenery brings liveliness to an already charming, industrial space.
Melina Mercouri Cafe is everlastingly charming. One of my favorite calming moments in Athens was stepping outside to find a spot to read while Jake took a siesta. With a book in hand, I ventured from our place through the city center, uphill toward the Parthenon, and stopped at MMC to sit outside, read my book, sip a cafe freddo, enjoy a spinach pie, and watch people pass by.
On our last night in town, we stopped for pre-dinner drinks at 360 Cocktail Bar, a hotel rooftop bar overlooking Monastiraki Square and the Parthenon. Bring your sunglasses—the sunset view here is unbeatable.

Stay

We stayed at an Airbnb that was a three-minute walk from Monastiraki Square—an unbeatable location. We were able to walk everywhere easily, including to the nearest train station, and never once needed to rent a car or call cabs. The primary downside was the noise at night - a club beneath us boomed pulsing EDM all night long, which made adjusting to the time zone a rough go of it. (Bring melatonin, a sleep mask, and ear plugs!)

strolling through Athens, en route to Melina Mercouri Cafe

Traveller’s Tips

Beware of pickpockets. Keep valuables close to your body and tucked away. (My phone got picked off on this trip, and I’d been carrying my phone in a trench coat with deep, loose pockets that were easy to reach into.)
For an iced coffee, ask for a “Cafe Freddo.” I learned how to make one at home here (it’s easier than you think).
When you’re ready to part Athens and start island hopping, consider taking a ferry. They are easy, safe, and cost efficient, and their lounge areas allow you to take a nap en route. Plus, it offers a nice view of passing islands.

Where else have you been in Athens? Leave your recommendations in a comment.

xxx,

Taylor

A City Guide to Athens, Greece

Days 1-3: Athens